After a much needed zero day in Ashland, and a really nice visit (not to mention some bomb trail magic) with 2015 trail friends Critter and Ruby who live in the area, I started north again. The rumor on trail is that Oregon is flat. Some hikers even brag about pulling 40-50 mile days. Many attempt the 3 Week Challenge, which requires racing from the Oregon/California border over the state's 450 miles of trail to reach Washington in 21 short days. While I neither accomplished, nor even attempted, these incredible feats of hiking prowess, I would like to attest that the PCT through the state of Oregon is relatively low key, well-graded, and in general very pleasant to hike. I opted to keep with my current pace, averaging 20 miles a day or so, mostly to take in the scenery and help myself enjoy the time I have left out here. I'm not really in any kind of rush anyway, with nowhere to be until mid-September when classes start.
Closer examination of the PCT in Oregon has also provided these details:
1) Oregon is primarily composed of dust and ash. You would not believe how filthy I've become walking across Oregon. Some days I can dump half a sandbox worth out of my socks and shoes. Dirt finds its way into every crevice, under fingernails, in my ears, and even into the hair follicles on my legs and arms so that I look like I have little pinprick-sized freckles all over my body.
Exhibit A: The Foulness
One hiker actually burst out laughing when I took my shoes off because my toenails are painted pink but my toes were absolutely black. He asked to take a picture to show his friends back home, so I guess I'm Dirty Feet now.
A spectrum of filth
Some days I look at my arms at the end of the day and think I am finally getting tan, but no, it's just the dirt on my wrists blending into the sunburn. This filth is further amplified by the caked on layers upon layers of bug dope that I am forced to smear into my skin each morning before I exit my tent, which brings me to my second Oregon observation...
The chief predator of Oregon
2) Oregon is Mosquito Kingdom. Or Mosquito Hell. Honestly the terms are interchangeable. With the late-melting snows this year, the mosquito hatch is off the charts and frankly, for us hikers, it is nothing short of traumatizing. I have literally been chased down the trail by a cloud of these vampirous floating leeches and it is not uncommon to have a few dozen on just my headnet alone, whining and hovering aggressively around my ears while I fill my bottle at water sources. More than once I have been bitten on the ass through two pairs of pants, both treated with the mosquito repellent permethrin. They can land on the one spot you forgot to spray, at the exact second you avert your attention away, even in gale-force winds. It is both impressive and terrifying. I am covered in bites, and they itch something awful. Not even 100% DEET will deter the skeeters sometimes, but I have found the slightest relief using eucalyptus and lemon oils. But mostly I just run like hell everywhere and flail my arms a lot.
My last major observation is that as I delve further into Oregon, I am filled with an overwhelming feeling that I am arriving in the magical land of the Pacific Northwest. The landscape is just a little greener, the plants and flowers are just a little different, every day there's a little more moss on the trees I walk by, and, perhaps best of all, THE VOLCANOS ARE COMING. Kicked off by none other than the spectacularly unique, Crater Lake. Crater Lake was, to my understanding, a volcano long ago. There are still smaller ones lining the rim, and one tiny guy in the center of the lake called Wizard Island, but the main volcano blew a long time ago and has since filled with water. And since the region’s main form of precipitation is snow, the water in the lake is primarily snowmelt, resulting in some of the bluest, clearest water you can see anywhere on Earth. I think I overheard a ranger telling some tourists that it's possible to see 140 ft down into the lake. Which is insane. But after spending the day walking around the rim, I might actually believe it.
No photos were filtered in the making of this blog post. It really is that blue.
Wizard Island
Crater Lake is the highest point on the OR/WA stretch of the PCT (okay...it's an alternate...) But that meant more snow.
Pretty pink dress, pretty blue lake, but trust me when I tell you I was sweaty and filthy when this photo was taken
Crater Lake was a huge highlight of southern Oregon. I highly recommend visiting if you have the time and means. The other major highlight of this stretch was the ever-changing wonderful spectrum of people I crossed paths with. I didn't hike with anyone in particular, but instead melded between groups of thru hikers, section hikers, weekenders, park visitors, and even a few motorcyclists. I thoroughly enjoyed the company of pretty much everyone I met through the region, but a few highlights included two couples, one from Portland and another from New York, hiking the Oregon PCT section, a really special mom and son team section hiking to recover from a devastating loss in their family, and a married couple in their 60s from New Hampshire who hiked the Appalachian Trail 20 years ago, live out of their RV full time, and are hiking the PCT to mark the second decade anniversary of their grand adventure.
I was particularly touched by my interaction with Brenda and Brad, the mother-son team. Brad reminded me of my brother the minute I met him. Brenda's daughter, Brad's sister, passed away very suddenly just a few months ago. She was not much older than I am. This was Brenda's first ever backpacking trip, and Brad, an accomplished Eagle Scout, came along to help his mom. The two of them had experienced an unfathomable amount of pain, but their hearts were so open. I fell in love with them both immediately, and in only a few short days they became like family to me. The story of their loss and the strength of their family's love has followed me along the trail even after they returned home. Also, Brad is the world's best hugger. If you or anyone you know is in need of a really good hug, I know a guy.
As I headed into Central Oregon and volcano country, I fell into step with the couple from New Hampshire, whose names are Mountain Goat and Mountain Woman, or the Mountain Family collectively. We picked up a guy named Buff also near Mt. Thielson. Buff hiked the trail Mexico to Crater Lake last year and is out finishing the Oregon section this summer. It appears I've become part of a trail family! They are all in their 60s and are quite the lively bunch. They can, and often do, hike me under the table, for which I receive an awful lot of flack. I am very much enjoying exploring Oregon with them, and will update on our misadventures soon!
Pretty tundra leaving Crater Lake
Pretty Oregon sunsets
Getting closer to Canadia!!! Eh?
Jumping for joy because Oregon is pretty and I love Oregon!
This blog post brought to you by Cheetos, part of a well-balanced second breakfast. Yes, I eat them with a spoon.
